Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
